Barcelona travel guide
Meet BarcelonaBarcelona weather reportGetting into BarcelonaTop attractions in BarcelonaGetting around Barcelona Where to eat in BarcelonaPage 2: More information on Barcelona
Meet Barcelona
Colourful, cosmopolitan and party-loving, Barcelona is one of Spain’s most popular cities. Capital of Catalonia; what has tried and failed to be a separate nation but locals remain fiercely defensive of their ‘Catalan identity’, celebrated with all the hot-blooded Mediterranean passion you can imagine.
The old city is full of Moorish character, cobbles and, err...prostitutes. Until a few years ago this was a city with depravity at the heart of it. Ladies of the night plied their trade casually in the labyrinthine streets, with no attempt at discretion. The act has been cleaned up and crime is down, but still occasionally an issue. Be wary of over-friendly locals who come too close, perhaps in the helpful pretence of cleaning bird poo from your shoulder – they may just be trying to sneak your wallet from your pocket...
Catalan craftsmen have been highly reputed since the Middle Ages, but this lax and socialist past has attracted a particularly bohemian artistic crowd and is THE place to geek up on architecture. Especially famous for its classic gothic churches and Gaudi’s Modernisme. Since the late 19th century Barcelona has been making waves in the world of bricks and mortar.
Buildings are big news here, with 5,000 trained architects living in the city. However, ambition craves fame and it is often well known architects from overseas that are called in to design the next big thing. Buildings and structures commissioned here tend to be rather outlandish and not wanting in crazy artistic flair.
All this and there’s a beach too – get me on that plane now.
Barcelona weather report
Winters are pretty mild. December, January and February are the coldest months but with average temperatures around 13C° – 15C°. The hottest months are July and August with temperatures of 27C°- 30C°. This is a particularly humid time for sightseeing, so make sure you drink plenty of water and wear a hat to keep cool.
May and June are arguably the best times to visit as the weather is consistently sunny and warm, but not unbearably hot. October has the highest amount of rainfall so remember your brolly.
For the latest weather info use the Pampo weather forecast tool.
Getting into Barcelona
Fly to El Prat, south-west of the city. Buses run from the three main terminals (A, B and C) to the city centre – Placa Catalunya, with stops along the way. Buses run every 10 minutes between 6am – 1am and take 35 minutes. There is also a night bus (N17) which runs every hour. Single fare is €3.75.on
There is also a train station in-between terminals A and B. The Cercanias train (C10) departs at 29 and 59 minutes past the hour, between 6am and 10.59pm. To the city centre takes half an hour and costs €2.40.
Top attractions in Barcelona
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La Rambla – once a riverbed but long since dried up is now a mile-long tree lined promenade, and has become an iconic feature of Barcelona and a real tourist spot. Soaring prices and gimmicky features have made many locals keep a distance however every visitor should at least pass through even if only to say you have done so. Abundance in human statues, souvenir shops and street performers make it great for strolling and people watching. Visit the well loved area les Flors – a section of the boulevard with a row of colourful flower stalls, open into the night. Also look out for the pavement mosaic by artist Joan Miro in 1976. Best not to eat here – prices are extortionate.
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The large, gothic Catedral (cathedral), full name Santa Esglesia Catedral Basilica de Barcelona, is the third church to stand on this site; the previous two being destroyed. The building that currently stands began construction in 1298 and incredibly was not finished until the 19THc. The intricate neo-Gothic design is slightly imposing and includes many paintings, sculptures and images added at various stages of building. Look out for the notoriously badly behaved geese that live in the cloister and have done so since 15thC. There is a lift to the roof (no need to climb hundreds of narrow stairs – phew) for breathtaking views over the old city. Admission to the church and cloister is free but a combined ticket allows entrance to the museum, choir and roof for €4.
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Gaudi is a name you will become accustomed to hearing in Barcelona and his Palau Guell is the biggest jewel in Catalonian crown of art nouveau; a sombre feeling palace with contrasting rainbow mosaic chimneys. Guided tours take place 10am – 1pm, then 4pm – 6.30pm. The iconic Sagrada Familia church is also a Gaudi building, although not originally started by him. Francisco de Paula de Villar was the original architect but Gaudi was commissioned a year later to continue work, and this was to become a labour of love until his death in 1926. Incredibly intricate with towering spires, the effect is mesmerising. The inside remains unfinished but building is ongoing, remaining true to Gaudi’s vision. Admission €12. 9am – 6pm October – March and until 8.30 April – September.
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The Museu Picasso is the city’s most visited museum and for good reason. Although Picasso hailed from the southern Spanish city of Malaga he made Barcelona his home when he came to art school here and then became a notable figure within Catalonia’s avant garde scene. €6 for permanent collection.
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Visit the Museu Diocesa (Diocesan Museum) for beautiful Romanesque murals and altarpieces; religious art a gogo. €6 admission, €3 concessions.
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The Santa Maria del Mar is arguably the best still-standing example of Gothic Catalan architecture. Characteristic features of octagonal towers, stained glass and horizontal lines make it a one of a kind within the city. Total building time took a remarkable 55 years (very quick for the 14th C). The large bare surfaces make it an excellent acoustic venue and is a popular location for music concerts. If you are here at Easter try and catch the requiem mass which is particularly moving. Admission free.
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The red light district of Ravel still has a reputation for absinthe soaked hookers, drug addicts and seedy back-alley theatres, 1920’s style. Tremendous character still remains, however recent years have added another string to the neighbourhood bow – as a haven for immigrants. This is the Barcelona ghetto, and is a working class playground. However increasing popularity with artists and students is adding a certain ‘cool’ factor and a plethora of arty cafes, boho bars, quirky fashion shops and galleries have sprung up. Take a walk around the fascinating neighbourhood, but beware of pickpockets.
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MACBA – Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, housed in New York based architect Richard Meier’s stylishly modern building to reflect the interior works. Showing the best (and the worst) in local and international contemporary arts.
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Barcelona’s beaches have a reputation for being dirty. When the nickname ‘bay of pigs’ emerged, a swift clean-up followed with sand and palm trees being imported from overseas. Ever since the makeover the beaches have proved highly popular and in the summer get very crowded. Platja de Sant Miquel has an Ibiza feel...only a bit dirtier. Plenty of thong bikinis and house music playing. For chilled out sun loungers try Platja de Bogatell. Watch out for Platja de Sant Sebastia if nudity offends.
Getting around Barcelona
All the main sites in the city are fairly close together so on foot is the best way to get around. Bicycles are also a great way to see the old town and port. Try Al punt de trobada.
For longer journeys get the bus or tram. Most bus routes run from 6am to 10.30pm, although there are some night buses which run until 4.30 – 6am (call 902 02 33 93 for info). Bus stops are rarely clearly indicated so you will need to look around, but if you get stuck, most bus routes begin or pass through Placa Universitat and Placa Urquinaona.
Single tickets can be bought from the driver for €1.20 but if you are planning several trips it is better value to buy a targeta; a ticket that can be used on all public transport modes and can be shared by people travelling in groups. These can be bought in newsagents and at metro and train stations. A targeta for 10 trips costs €6.65. Trams lines T1, T2 and T3 run from the central Placa Francesc Macia, Zona Alta to the outer city.
Where to eat in Barcelona
Lunchtime typically occurs between 2pm – 3.30pm and supper from 9pm – 11.30pm, any earlier and it will be clear that you are a tourist! For weekend dining it is advisable to book a table in advance for many places.
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Els Quatre Gats cafe – legendary hangout of Picasso and his bohemian friends.
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Cafe de l’Academia – sunny terrace serving Catalan classics.
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Can Culleretes – since 1786 this has been serving up traditional Catalonian dishes at pocket friendly prices. Try the boar stew and goose with apples.
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Les Quinze Nits – booking is essential for this incredibly popular tourist restaurant, there are often queues outside. Serving Spanish food, most meals for €10 or less.
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Silenus – a mix of Mediterranean style food within a quirky, arty setting.
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Sesamo – Vegetarian food in chilled out (but not too new age-like) surroundings.
Avoid the restaurants and bars that line La Rambla – they are just waiting to rip you off. Not uncommon is watered down coca-cola for €15.