Athens travel guide
Meet AthensAthens weather reportGetting into AthensTop attractions in AthensGetting around Athens Where to eat in AthensPage 2: More information on Athens
Meet Athens
Hometown of philosophy, democracy and antiquity, Athens is a city that has shaped the western world as we know it today. Named after the goddess of civilization ‘Athena’, it is the place where western consciousness began. Visions of crumbling temples and smashing plates dominate the mind and it’s hard to get over the ‘ancient’ image that is conjured when one thinks of Greece. In more recent years Athens developed a reputation for dirt and pollution but following a major squeaky clean-up for the 2004 Olympic Games the city is now a hot-spot tourist destination.
So, gone are the days of Socrates roaming the marketplace asking people the meaning of life, but the heritage is still here if you’re prepared for a good stroll. The Acropolis stands high and mighty and is now linked to other monuments via a ten mile footpath, a far more peaceful alternative to the previously traffic clogged arteries of the city’s tourist hotspots.
Greece is still one of the least multi-cultural countries in Europe and is a long way from what you would describe ‘cosmopolitan’. Everything is seeped in authentic Greek traditionalism and yet is trying to look forward. Perhaps it is a city with an identity problem, struggling to cope with the sudden influx of migrants, now making up one fifth of the city’s population. Recent campaigns to build a mosque were stopped by Orthodox traditionalists trying to retain spiritual control on their territory. One gets the impression this is a city in limbo; past and present need to reconcile to look towards the future.
Athens weather report
Summer in Athens falls between July and September and temperatures are hot reaching around 35°C. Make sure you drink plenty of water and stick to shaded areas to avoid overheating. Winter is cooler with sporadic rainfall. Temperatures have been known to drop to zero but this is uncommon. January and February are the coldest months, with typical temperatures of 10°C. Spring/ Autumn are arguably the best times for a visit as temperatures are pleasant and ideal for sightseeing. Temperatures in May and October are both typically around 20°C.
Getting into Athens
Athens International Airport – Eleftherios Venizelos is the place to fly to. Try easyjet and Aegean Airlines for cheap flights.
From the airport get the metro into the city. Line 3 will take you to Monastiraki station. Trains run every half hour between 6am and midnight and take 27 minutes. Singles from €8.
Bus routes run frequently run between the airport and city centre and suburbs. Airport buses known as Athens Airport Express leave from outside the arrivals terminal. Routes E92, E93, E96 and E97 run 24/7 and take roughly half an hour to the city.
Top attractions in Athens
The Acropolis lies at the centre of most of Athens’ notable ancient landmarks, connected via the ‘Unification of Archaeological Sites walkway’. The Acropolis itself is a rectangular limestone mound that rises up out of the city-centre. According to myth, this is where the city was born, the hill and surrounding areas are the earliest inhabited parts of the city and were used for defence as well as worship. As the centre of the city since the beginning this area is a reflection of all the civilizations that have lived here. During the 5th century BC, the Athenian leader Pericles commissioned the building of a series of temples and structures which sit at the top of the hill.
The Parthenon is the main point of focus, a temple which honours Athena, designed by the famous sculptor Phidias and built during 447 BC and 438 BC. Further down the landscape the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built 2nd century AD sits southern-western facing, as well as the Lysicrates Monument and the Theatre of Dionysus. Roman additions include the Forum, which is a central marketplace built around the Tower of the Winds, dating back to 50 BC. The Byzantine era saw the erection of a number of small frescoed churches and during the period of Ottoman rule several mosques were built, as well as a Turkish bathhouse. Many little neighbourhoods can be found around here so it’s worth wandering off the walkway. The (most touristy) area of Plaka is filled with neo-classical houses, ruins and cobbled streets, and Filopappou Hill makes for stunning views of the Acropolis.
Whilst in Plaka, visit Athens Cathedral, also known as Mitropolis, which is one of the city’s great religious landmarks. Huge and ornate, it is perhaps best seen during the lavish Easter celebrations. Built in the 12th century, this important Greek Orthodox monument is home to the greatly discussed archbishop, and its seats are regularly packed. The walkway is dotted with sweet little cafes, and several days can be happily spent perusing along the walkway (it is ten miles after all.) Tickets to enter the walkway, and for all major sites along it is €12 all in.
Venture away from the tourist trail of ancient relics and get to grips with modern-day Athens. As with everything in Athens, it is multi-layered. The Historic Triangle is a hustle-bustle area of juxtaposed neo-classical buildings, Byzantine ruins and post-war blocks. Until the Ottoman rule, Athens had centred entirely around the Acropolis but things started to change in the 19th century when King Otto arrived from Bavaria to save the floundering state. The new monarchy set about introducing a new structure to Athenian life, and the Royal Palace, which later became Greece’s Parliament Building, was constructed. Also new were the Academy of Arts, the National University and National Library. The Central Market was built to address the commercial needs of the city, and this is still a central hubbub of activity today. Visit the market Monday – Saturday, 7am – 3pm.
The National Historical Museum is a tour through Athens’s war-torn history and the odd assortment of paraphernalia that was accumulated over a number of years,includes personal items of Lord Byron who spent considerable time here. Open 9am – 2pm Tuesday – Sunday, admission €3, and free on Sundays.
Visit the Byzantine Museum to view a sprawling collection of mosaics, sculptures, icons and other religious art from the fascinating Byzantine era. Aristotle’s Lyceum is also here. €4 admission for adults and free for students, 8.30 – 3pm Tuesday – Sunday.
Escape the noise of the city for a quiet walk in the National Gardens. Planted in 1839 to adjoin the Royal Palace (now Parliament) this is an oasis of exotic plants, living in and around twisting paths and pretty fountains. Open daily from 7am until sunset.
Athens is a city of cinema lovers and there are a number of fantastic cinemas to visit. The Aigli Cinema is an open-air screen within the National Gardens (see above). It shows primarily American blockbusters so is ideal for the western traveller. Tickets are €7.
Greek art is largely put in the ‘classical’ box, however there is a growing number of contemporary artists making their mark. The AD gallery is a great place to check out the avant garde Greek scene, with the focus on modern and conceptual art. Open noon – 9pm Tuesday – Friday.
If you’ve had your fill of sightseeing, put yourself on the E22 bus from Akadimias and get off at Limanakia (the third stop) for a day at the beach; beach is a term best used loosely as there is actually not an inch of sand in sight. Rocky coves lead down to the sea, find a bit of flat rock to lay your towel on and get sunbathing. Be warned that this is a very gay-friendly area and when the sun begins to set you can expect to witness some serious cruising going on.
Getting around Athens
The Metro has three different lines. Line 1 runs from the port of Piraeus to Kifisia; Line 2 from Agios Dimitrios to Agios Antonios; and Line 3 from Monastiraki to Athens International Airport. Trains run from 5.30/6am until midnight. Look out for ‘M’ signs to locate stations, where tickets can be bought from dispensers. A single fare is €0.60 for Line 1 and €0.70 for Lines 2 and 3, and travellers should note that machines don’t give change so make sure you have the exact coins needed. Once purchased, a ticket is valid for 90 minutes.
Bus tickets can be bought at OASA ticket kiosks prior to boarding. Tickets typically cost €0.45. Trams also run around the city, tickets cost €0.60 for adults and must be validated in special machines on the platform before embarking.
Since the 2004 Olympics, walking is a great way to see the city. Wider pavements and the ten mile walkway between archaeological sites has greatly improved matters, however pedestrians should always be alert – drivers in Athens are notoriously mad, and just because there is a red traffic light does not guarantee drivers will stop.
For up to date transport information visit OASA and Ametro.
Where to eat in Athens
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Etrusco – ran by the greatly celebrated chef Ettore Brotrini, this rather smart restaurant boasts one of the loveliest roof gardens in the city with spectacular views of the Acropolis.
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Cafe Abyssinia – bohemian feel with traditional Greek favourites on the menu such as stuffed vine leaves and taramasalata.
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Lefka – old fashioned taverna style.
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Thalatta’s – a little pretentious but with the goods to back it up. Famous for its seafood.
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To Paradosiako – tucked away little eatery, perfect for light lunches right in the town centre.
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Koulouria Bakery in Psyrri – open around the clock and full of tired looking party-goers in the wee hours. Fresh Greek snacks such as sugary ‘donats’.
To find the best places to eat, the best tip is to avoid the tourist trail. Sniff out busy looking places that are full of locals and be reassured that you have got great food at fair prices. A good taverna lets the food do talking, and anywhere trying to drag you in is best avoided. Always check the menu and avoid the set meals – they are usually left over’s that have already been plated up and are waiting around to be ordered.